วันพุธที่ 2 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2553

The temple of the Isle

The temple of the Isle

After the short gondola ride across the river, visitors are overcome by the enchantment of Wat Niwet Dharma Prawat

  • Published: 30/05/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Brunch

The distinguished Wat Niwet Dharma Prawat occupies a minute parcel of land encircled by the country's iconic River of Kings, the Chao Phraya. Although the route from Bangkok to Ayutthaya's Bang Pa-in district is well-travelled, many tourists miss this captivating temple nestled on a tiny islet to the west of the legendary Bang Pa-in Palace.

From the parking lot near the entrance of the palace, a humble open-air cable car serves as the only means of access to this place of worship.

Once there, visitors meandering down the narrow footpath leading to the compound's entrance are astounded when their eyes first gaze upon the astonishing cluster of gingerbread house-like buildings, whose vivid shades and hues might make them believe the short gondola ride had deposited them in a fantasy land.

This adorable temple was founded in 1878 by King Rama V to function as a venue for royal rituals and religious activities while the monarch was at his summer retreat at Bang Pa-in.

The outward appearance of these eye-catching structures is completely Western, but the monastery itself is of the Dhammayut sect, the form of Buddhism established by King Rama V's father, King Rama IV. Among all the spectacular buildings, the highlight is the church-like ordination hall, whose exterior remarkably reflects a Christian Gothic architectural style. The towering monument in white and beige is complete with pointed arches and a grey elongated spire on the outside, whereas on the inside its mesmerising adornment reflects a seamless fusion of orthodox East and stereotypically Western motifs.

Stepping through the front door into the interior of the ordination hall, one has the feeling of walking simultaneously down the nave of a chapel and a Buddhist hall of worship. Installed above the doorway is the vibrant stained glass bearing the image of King Rama V in royal ceremonial costume.

The stained glass windows embellishing many of the walls are strikingly separated by glistening standing Buddha images.

While the interior design is culturally mixed, the layout of the hall is arranged in a traditionally Buddhist style. The temple's principal Buddha image, Phra Buddha Naruemon Dharmophas, is enshrined in the middle of the altar.

Flanking the statue are the Lord Buddha's two chief disciples, Sariputta and Moggallana. Underneath the principal image on the lower base is the renowned Phra Nirantarai, a statuette in lotus position whose title was granted by King Rama IV.

There is a story behind this. The Buddha image is one of 18 that were duplicated from the ancient golden Buddha image of the same name.

Said to be discovered by a local farmer in Prachin Buri province in 1856, the original statue was presented to the fourth Chakri monarch, who later placed it in Hor Sathiendharmaparit, one of the royal chapels inside the Grand Palace.

One day a thief struck at the chapel where this sacred Buddhist symbol was kept, but left behind the golden statue while making off with other less valuable objects.

After witnessing this image's miraculous capacity for survival, rescued first from obscurity in the farmer's field and then from theft, the king decided to name it Phra Nirantarai, which translates literally to the unharmable statue.

As dusk began to fall and the monks quietly secured the marvellous structure for their evening prayers, it was time to bid farewell to the harmonious synthesis of serenity and lively architecture. Retracing my steps back to the cable car and leaving the tiny isle behind, the return flight across the river woke me from the dream-like, enchanting experience at Wat Niwet Dharma Prawat.

PHOTOS: PATSINEE KRANLERT

About the author

columnist
Writer: Patsinee Kranlert
Position: Reporter


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