Amata City: มีนาคม 2010

วันพุธที่ 31 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Saucy Thai secrets

Fish sauce has waned in quality, but the original is still available if you know where to look

Published: 28/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch

When we think about Thai food, there are some details that seem so commonplace, so minor, that it is easy to forget how crucially important they are. One of them is nam pla phrik, the little bowl or container of nam pla with slices of phrik khee nu (bird chillies) floating in it, a condiment as ubiquitous on the Thai table as salt and pepper are in the West.

Many of the most popular Thai dishes - curries like kaeng phet and kaeng khio wan, stir fries like phat khana kap pla khem (Chinese broccoli fried with salted fish), stuffed omelettes like khao jio sai bai horapha kap phrik chee fa - are salty and chilli-hot as served. But tastes differ. Some people like the saltiness accented, while others prefer them to be very hot. This is where nam pla phrik comes in, ready to help each person adjust the taste of the dish according to preference.

Every restaurant and food shop, regardless of size, will always have it on the table. If it is a large place the nam pla phrik with be offered in a ceramic container, sometimes covered, to make it look more attractive. More basic food shops set it out in a small drinking glass that is passed from table to table.

Nam pla phrik isn't used only to season Thai food. Single-dish Chinese dishes like khao mu daeng (Chinese red pork with rice and gravy), khao kha mu (stewed pork leg with rice) and even noodle dishes like kui tio rad na and phat see iew (rice noodles stir-fried with dark soy sauce, meat and Chinese broccoli) are served with a glass of it kept nearby.

PIQUANT: ‘Nam pla Mon’ from Samut Songkhram, eaten with grilled mackerel. There is also some ‘kaeng phet’, a spicy, coconut creambased curry.

It is used in every part of the country. The Isan version is different in that the chilli used is usually dried and ground, and sometimes there is a little liquid from pla ra (fermented fish) added. There are a couple of reasons for this. One has to do with convenience: using ground, dried chillies, a staple found in every kitchen, saves the time that would otherwise be used slicing fresh ones.

The second reason is that, when made with ground, dried chillies and fermented fish that condiment can serve as a simple nam phrik, or chilli dip sauce. Served with sticky rice, boiled vegetables and a steamed or grilled fish it makes a healthy meal.

In the Central Region and other parts of Thailand, those who want to add flavour to nam pla phrik can add thin slices of fresh garlic and squeeze in a little lime juice. Farmers in Samut Songkhram province make a version called nam pla Mon by mixing nam pla with phrik khee nu, lime juice, chopped galangal and krachai (an aromatic root), and fresh coriander. This sauce is used to season the mackerel called pla thu that have been grilled over a fragrant coconut husk fire.

These examples show how crucial nam pla phrik is to Thai dining today, and its role was just as vital in the past. In the old days, people used to say that if you had a plate of good, hot rice, a fried egg and some nam pla phrik khee nu, that was plenty.

The idea was that the rice and the egg were common enough, but it was the nam pla with chillies that made them delicious.

The term "nam pla dee" - "good nam pla" - appears in every old Thai cookbook. People thought that high-quality nam pla was needed to give any dish being cooked a fine flavour.

"Good" nam pla was made at home, and the technique for making it was the same for people who lived on rivers and canals and those who lived near the sea. The only difference was the kind of fish that was used.

The freshwater fish that was used was pla soy, a soft, translucent species with soft meat. During the rainy season when the floods rose, pla soy proliferated. Then, when the waters receded, villagers placed nets in the river to catch them.

The fish were fermented in clay jars with salt, three parts fish to two parts salt, for eight months, after which the liquid that resulted was boiled and filtered. The filtered nam pla was poured into bottles that were set out in the sun. When one was used up, another would be brought in and opened.

Households located near the seashore used pla kratak, which is also small, translucent and soft. The proportions of fish to salt and the fermenting method was the same as with the freshwater fish, but in this case the liquid was not boiled but eaten "raw".

Nam pla made this way was "good" nam pla. There were factories that produced it, but they used the same technique that was used in private households. This meant the city dwellers could enjoy nam pla that was just as good as that used by villagers.

Today nam pla dee is all but unobtainable. There are still a few villagers living near rivers who make their own, but the practice has virtually stopped in seaside areas, largely because the pla kratak have been largely fished out. Fishermen who do catch them now usually sell them to factories, which brings them income quickly, rather then using them to make their own nam pla.

The nam pla sold these days is factory-made, usually from a fish called pla sai ton. It is small, the the quality of its meat can't compare with that of the pla kratak. What's more, the factories often dilute the sauce and then add flavouring to compensate. If they made it full-strength, like the home-made version, they would have to sell it for more than 100 baht a bottle.

Tracking down home-made nam pla that would have passed muster in the past as nam plee dee requires serious detective work now. In fact, it's as hard as finding a gold chain in the sea. It exists, but getting hold of it requires time and energy. Once you do find it, however, you are in for a special experience. You may even feel that just some hot rice, a fried egg and some of the fish sauce with sliced chillies is all you really need.

Today I'd like to recommend a source of real nam pla dee that I found by accident after hunting for a long time. Happily, they offer it for sale to people who want to taste the real thing. It is a shop called Ran Phueng Klan that sells dried seafood, located at Mu Ban Sam San in Sattahip roughly across from the Samoson Nam Nao. In addition to the nam pla they also offer seafood products like dried squid, salted fish and kapi, and operate as a family business.

They make the nam pla from pla kratak for their own consumption, but prepare it in sufficient quantity to let them sell it to customers who want to try it. Once the very limited stock runs out, however, there is a long wait until more becomes available.

For that reason, it is a good idea to phone in advance to make sure that there is some on hand. If there is, be sure to go and buy it immediately.

The phone number of Ran Phueng Klan is 08-9079-9704.

About the author

: Writer: Suthon Sukphisit; Position: Writer

The Grandeur and Magnificence of Spain

One of Europe's best-known countries may also be one of its least understood

Published: 28/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch

Spain could be Europe's most exotic country. From soulful flamenco and delicious food, to avant-garde architecture and cities, Spain is a beguiling mix of stirring and often curious traditions, live-for-the-moment hedonism and a willingness to embrace the future with a relentlessly adventurous spirit.

But let's start with the drama and diversity of the Spanish landscape. Some of Europe's most beautiful mountain ranges - the Pyrenees and Picos de Europa in the north and the Sierra Nevada in the south - are found there, and often close to coastlines of singular beauty, particularly in Asturias, Galicia and Almeri'a in Andaluci'a.

Adding personality to Spain's natural splendour, villages of rare and timeless beauty have colonised the most improbable locations. Whether in the postcard-perfect pueblos blancos (white villages) of Andaluci'a or the stone-and-timber architecture of hamlets across Central Spain and Aragon, these are vestiges of Old Spain that still cling to traditions like nowhere else in Europe.

A world away, Spain's dynamic cities are temples to all that is modern and cool. Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia and Seville have become bywords for that peculiarly Spanish talent for living the good life, and for doing so at full volume and all night. At the same time, most cities promise a daytime feast of more sedate but nonetheless exceptional sites, from world-class art galleries to graceful Islamic-era monuments, from barrios (neighbourhoods) overflowing with mediaeval charm to zany Gaudi flights of fancy.

And yet, for all of Spain's obvious appeal, some visitors feel as though visiting the country is akin to standing outside a riotous party with your nose pressed up against the glass. Spain is perhaps the best-known, least-understood country in Europe, but it's also one of the most welcoming and accessible. By demystifying the central pillars of Spanish life - such as flamenco, Spanish cuisine and eating customs - this guide takes you inside that party, where having a good time is almost guaranteed.

This is an edited extract from
'Discover Spain', Lonely Planet
Publications, 2010.
For more information
visit http://www.lonelyplanet.com.

TOP SPANISH ITINERARY

THE BIG THREE - TAKE FIVE DAYS AND CHECK OUT THE SIGHTS FROM BARCELONA TO GRANADA

DISCOVER SPAIN: Available from all good bookshops for 895 baht.

Even in five days, you can get a taste for what makes Spain special. Spend a couple of days in Barcelona, take a high-speed train to Madrid for one night, then a train (four to five hours) or flight to Granada for two more nights.

1. BARCELONA

There's no better introduction to Spain than strolling along La Rambla, then branching out into the 15th century Barri Gotic with its fine monuments, lovely plazas and mediaeval streetscape. You could pause in the Museu Picasso, but make sure you leave time for the city's astonishing collection of works left by Antoni Gaudi': La Sagrada Fami'lia is one of Spain's most extraordinary buildings, followed closely by Casa Batllo, La Pedrera and Park Guell. There's also some terrific shopping, and this is one of the best places in Spain to sample innovative Spanish (and Catalan) food.

2. MADRID

With just a day in the Spanish capital, head for the Museo del Prado with its masterpieces by Velazquez, Goya and a host of European masters, followed by a visit to the nearby Centro de Arte Reina Sofi'a for a dose of Salvador Dali' and Picasso's peerless Guernica. For some quiet down time, immerse yourself in the oasis that is the Parque del Buen Retiro. After dark, pass through the Plaza Mayor, then skip from bar to bar in La Latina, famous for its delicious tapas varieties. Dip into Madrid's nightlife and you may not emerge until dawn.

3. GRANADA

It's a four- to five-hour train journey to Granada, but consider flying to save time. Spend your first day exploring Albayzin, Granada's one-time Islamic quarter, with its whitewashed tangle of lanes that tumble down the hillside.

Also don't miss the gilded La Capilla Real, the city's extravagant Christian counterpoint to the dominant Islamic splendour. For food, Granada has some of Spain's most generous tapas and there are excellent places to sample some flamenco. But it's the Alhambra, arguably Spain's most beautiful collection of buildings and streets, that you came so far to see, so make sure you get an early start and plan to spend as much of your second day there as you can.

Homestays showcase mon culture

Just a short drive north of Bangkok in Ayutthaya province, a whole new world awaits

Published: 28/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch

Ever since the Sinoy Homestay project was set up a year ago in Ayutthaya's Bang Ban district, the predominantly ethnic Mon enclave hasn't been quite the same. A steady stream of guests drops by to learn about this century-old community's rich history, culture and traditions, which are still followed today.

What makes the encounter all the more unforgettable are the old folks who delight in sharing their local wisdom on traditional cuisine, dance, song and folklore. It was an unusually humid afternoon when we arrived at the home of Mayuree Srinak, who is credited with pioneering the homestay, which gets its name from Sinoy subdistrict where it is located. She had the idea to launch a homestay there while on a trip to survey homestay projects in Ang Thong province.

A gracious host, Ms Mayuree offered us lunch, which consisted largely of fusion Mon/Thai dishes. Over lunch, the bespectacled former school superintendent explained how setting up a homestay in her own home helped to convince her neighbours to become a part of this venture.

"Ethnic Mon communities are close- knit, so I had to show by example that opening one's home to visitors is a good way to preserve and promote our culture and traditions," said the talkative Ms Mayuree. At the same time she was attending to a group of university lecturers who were guests in her home.

"To make it a success, I knew that the entire community had to get involved. However, they needed someone to show them that it was all worth the effort. In the beginning, I had some elderly people give demonstrations on making Thai sweets and basket weaving, while some of the children showcased their traditional Thai boxing and dance skills. Today we have about 10 homes participating in this endeavour. Each home highlights what they do best."

Ms Mayuree and her friends were in seventh heaven when their community project was given an award for being the country's best homestay from the Office of Tourism Development.

On a typical day, visitors offer alms to monks in the morning. This is followed by various activities such as tours to the vegetable and fruit plantations, local markets and temples. There is also a good chance of picking up some traditional Thai dancing steps while getting hands-on experience in cooking traditional dishes.

Luang Pho Yai Buddhist temple - one of the primary historically significant spots to visit during the homestay sojourn - is believed to have been built during the Sukhothai period. The temple's architectural design is typically Mon and the temple grounds, which are encircled by the farming community, enclose a Mon-style chedi. Once a dilapidated religious sanctuary, fresh renovations have given the temple a new look. The Mon community in Sinoy contributed the financial resources for the refurbishment.

When prayer requests are granted, petitioners often dance around the temple, for it is believed this is pleasing to the temple's guardian spirits. During yearly floods in Ayutthaya, this is one of the few temples that isn't affected, and locals believe mystical powers protect the temple from calamity.

Foodies in particular will find this place a haven for its mouth-watering local delights. At the banana plantation of Suwana and Radin Ananat visitors can learn about organic farming and how to grow bananas and various other plants found locally in Ayutthaya. Produce can also be purchased at the farm at reasonable prices.

At an affiliated homestay in the Sinoy area that goes by the name of Ban Song Spain, we met up with a group of elderly ladies preparing sun-dried bananas. The bananas are dried whole and also cut into thin slices with a dash of sesame seed. This homestay is also popular for its peanuts roasted with basil leaf, black sesame seeds and an assortment of herbs. A nearby sesame plantation supplies the black seeds.

USEFUL INFORMATION

Call Khun Mayuree at 081-946-5457 and 035-884-605 for reservations and directions to Sinoy Homestay.

Ban Song Spain can be contacted at 089-239-8966 and 035-244-834.

Call Khun Suwana of Radin Banana Farm at 035-884-588.

About the author

: Writer: Yvonne Bohwongprasert; Position: Reporter

Getting Away

Published: 28/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch

Songkran, the popular and much anticipated Thai New Year Festival, is coming, so hopefully you have your water-pistols ready for battle. Celebrations will be held throughout the Kingdom, but if you're looking for a local experience, Nakhon Phanom may be the ideal choice this year, as it will mark both the Thai and Lao New Years. On April 12, there will be a "cultural street", so you can glimpse the local way of life. The next day will see 20 parades on the streets of Renu Nakhon district. Visitors can take part in water fights all over town, especially on the banks of the river.

Head to Chon Buri where you will get a second chance to celebrate Songkran as the province observes the festival later than the rest of the country. In Pattaya it is referred to as Wanlai, and the party begins in Na Klua, north of the city, and stretches to Jomtien beach. In Bang Saen, on April 16, there will be a sand pagoda building competition and alms-giving ceremonies on the beach. This will be followed by watersports, beauty contests and water fights all over town. Similar activities will take place in Si Chang, a small island near Si Racha, and Sattahip Naval Base from April 15 to 17. On April 18 in Na Klua a procession will be held with bathing rites for Buddha statues. For more information, call the TAT Call Centre on 1672.

Still hungry for more action?

The southern province of Trang is famed for its beaches and cuisine. The Trang Food Festival, at the Phraya Ratsadanupradit Mahisoraphakdi Memorial in Trang town from April 3 to 8, showcases local delicacies. It will feature two zones, one will have booths selling famous provincial dishes, including seafood, roasted pork and Trang cakes, and the other will resemble an ancient marketplace. There will also be cultural performances, including traditional puppet shows. For more information, call the local TAT office on 07-521-5867.

About the author

: Writer: Patsinee Kranlert; Position: Reporter

วันอังคารที่ 23 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Vineyard by The Sea

The mineral soil of the hills above Hua Hin produces distinctive wines that are making a big impression on wine lovers at home and abroad

Published: 19/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Realtime

Some 40 kilometres off the beaten track lies a 1,500-rai plot of land where orderly rows of grapevines are set on sandy soil in a blazing tropical climate calmed by coastal breezes. As unusual a viticultural location as it might sound, this is Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, home to one of the most celebrated New Latitude wines, Monsoon Valley.

Chalerm and Daranee Yoovidhya with their Hua Hin Hills vineyard in the background.Photos by ANUSORN SAKSEREE

It was a bright Saturday afternoon. The vineyard's owners, Chalerm and Daranee Yoovidhya, were mingling with their guests _ a mix of hoteliers, artists, food critics, wine lovers, socialites and celebrities both local and foreign. Sharing the same interest in good works and fine wines, they were there to celebrate Hua Hin Hills' first harvest season with a special charity auction as a highlight.

Established in 2004, Hua Hin Hills, the only vineyard in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, is the Yoovidhya's third wine estate, after the floating vineyard in Samut Sakhon and mountainous vineyard in Pak Chong, Nakhon Ratchasima. Thanks to the area's mineral soil, it seems to produce grapes of the most satisfying quality.

Although Hua Hin Hills has been the family's main vineyard for the past few years, this was the first year in which it started to yield enough good wine to justify inviting guests to enjoy the harvest festivities.

''This is the first time that Hua Hin Hills has had an official harvest festival,'' said Chalerm Yoovidhya. ''It is a good time to launch our new wine and a great opportunity to promote wine tourism and Hua Hin's tourism industry.''

Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam label designed by Thawan Duchanee

All proceeds from the charity auction went to the Preserve Hua Hin Foundation and Kui Buri National Park Fund. The auction fetched two million baht, and among the items sold were wildlife photographs by Bruce Kekule, art objects by Lotus Arts de Vivre, an exclusive cooking class at Le Cordon Bleu, a Reidel wineglass master class, a home-cooked meal by renowned chef David Thompson. and getaway packages from five-star hotels and resorts including Four Seasons Residence Chiang Mai, Dusit Polo Club Cha-am, Chiva-Som Health Resort Hua Hin and Anantara Resort.

The event also saw the limited edition Monsoon Valley Cuvee de Siam wine introduced with a label designed by Thawan Duchanee, one of Thailand's most famous artists.

''I've had a passion for wildlife conservation for many years,'' said Chalerm. ''I think the Kui Buri project, a home of wild elephants and cattle, is inspiring and has the potential to be another natural attraction.

''But to protect wildlife you need manpower as well as a big budget, which the Kui Buri project obviously lacked. Even though I've been helping them for a few years, this is the first year that I made it public and invited others who are interested in this kind of charity to join. I plan to give a continuous support and will try to persuade Red Bull overseas to do the same.''

A short tour on elephant back is one of the favourite activities on offer at the vineyard.

Wine and tourism at Hua Hin make a good match and Chalerm's vineyard welcomes an average of 500 visitors a day. It was opened as a tourist destination a year ago after the Sala Wine Bar and Bistro (see review on page 6) was built for visitors to relax and taste the wine with their meals.

Born into the Krating Daeng (Red Bull) energy drink dynasty, Chalerm's passion for wine began when he was studying in England. He did not care to drink beer or whisky with food, and when he dined out with friends, he found that there were always a wine list that came with the menu.

''At first I didn't really like its flavour because as a newcomer I didn't know how to choose a good wine _ and on a student allowance, chances of having access to good wines were rare. But, after some trial and error, I gradually came to love it,'' he said.

Returning to Thailand, he worked in the family business, but his wish was to get into wine. The desire persisted, and he eventually realised this was to be his future, and he applied for a winemaker's license.

''Even though I wanted to jump into winemaking, I knew that Thai people at that time weren't familiar with the beverage and had few opportunities to taste premium wines, as they were so expensive,'' he said.

Chalerm and Daranee Yoovidhya handing the 1,200,000-baht cheque to Boonlue Poonnil, head of the Kui Buri National Park.

Launching a new wine was going to be a challenge, so he decided to prepare the Thai palate for the taste of wine by introducing Wine Cooler, which was made from wine grapes but was lower in alcohol. Sweet, cool and refreshing, it was made to be easy to drink.

Preparations took a good 10 years, and when he believed it was a good time to start making wine, Chalerm began buying grapes from local farmers. Unfortunately, this didn't work.

''Most farmers didn't do what we told them,'' he said. ''They thought their traditional methods of growing grapes were the right ones. This taught us that in order to produce top-quality wine and to gain consumer's trust, we needed to grow our own grapes in our own vineyards.

''We didn't plan to have a vineyard in Hua Hin. To us it was just a pleasant seaside destination where we had our holiday home. But we were given a seven-rai plot in Huay Sai, so we thought about planting vines there. Although the soil was mostly sand and the land is near the sea, the grapes turned to be better than we expected.

''We decided to stick to this area, because land was a lot cheaper than in Khao Yai. In Khao Yai at that time it was 400,000 to 500,000 baht a rai, while here it was closer to 50,000 baht a rai. We took the soil to the lab, studied the water that came from the hills and found this location had great possibilities for good wine. The soil is rich with minerals and gives the wine a distinctive taste.

''Another significant difference was that Khao Yai didn't have five-star or international establishments, but Hua Hin had everything including international tourists who we'd envisaged as our target customers.''

Some of the distinguished guests participating in the charity auction.

His aim was first to introduce his wine to the international market. The tax and duty on wine in Thailand are among the highest in the world, so Chalerm chose to focus on exports. He reasoned that if he gained recognition in the international market, it would be easier to succeed domestically.

''The wine industry in Thailand was struggling at first, but now we have the Thai Wine Association to set standards of quality, growing methods and hygiene,'' he said. ''It's better for every winemaker here to keep to the same standard than each coming up with his own ideas if we want to compete on the international stage.''

Thai Wine Association (TWA) currently comprises seven wineries and the Thai grape and wine industry employs about 1,300 people. Altogether there are 2,500 rai planted with vines which produce something in the region of a million bottles a year with a value of 400 million baht. Wine tourism welcomes 450,000 visitors a year and generates revenue of 100 million baht at cellar door.

''We aren't trying to compare our wine with those classic wines whose history goes back hundreds of years,'' said Chalerm. ''We're simply trying to make wine that pairs well with Thai food and can be found in Thai restaurants throughout the world. Today, there is greater recognition of Thai wine in the international market, and this is reflected in the volume of sales and the number of awards and prizes we are winning.

''Thai people's perception of Thai wine has also improved, but we still have the problems of tax and pricing. High prices mean that the younger generation has little chance of trying good wine, and they're less likely to find good quality among the cheap price tags.

''We decided that the answer was to import wine from oversea and blend it with our own wine and sell it at lower price, so consumers can have access to wine of good quality. At blind tastings, people tend to love Hua Hin Hills wines _ especially chilled white wines.

''Wine is part of our family, and it's a joy to see it growing. We've learned a lot from our wine, too, and always trying to improve it,'' said Chalerm.

Relate Search: Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, New Latitude wines, Monsoon Valley, Chalerm and Daranee Yoovidhya

About the author

: Writer: Vanniya Sriangura; Position: Reporter

Thailand's favourite fish

'Pla thu' has a prime place in the culinary culture of Thailand

Published: 21/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch

If there is a fish that is close to the heart of Central Thailand's culinary tradition it is probably the pla thu, a type of mackerel that goes ideally with nam phrik kapi, the iconic chilli dip sauce. But there are several varieties of pla thu, including types found off the China coast and in Indonesian waters.

The one that Thais like best, and which inhabits the Gulf of Thailand, is not especially big and is notable for its oily meat and its appetising aroma and flavour.

Its life cycle involves a certain amount of travel. The mother lays her eggs in southern Thai waters where there are rocky reefs to protect them. When they hatch, the tiny fry gradually make their way to the Gulf of Thailand, and the closer they get to the part of the gulf that they are seeking, with its muddy bottom, the more food they find. It abounds in the muddy-bottomed sea off of Samut Songkhram and Phetchaburi, where the fish grow to full size and their meat reaches maximum quality. It is in these places that the best and tastiest pla thu are caught.

The fish that aren't caught by fishermen return to the South to breed and the cycle is repeated. Since the entire life cycle takes place in Thai waters, this variety of pla thu is considered to be a Thai fish.

It is one fish that is eaten by Thais in every part of the country. People who live near rivers prefer to eat freshwater fish and dislike sea fish because of their odour. But they make an exception for the pla thu and concede that it is delicious.

FISH PASTE: ‘Nam phrik kapi’ with fried ‘pla thu’.

Thirty years ago a candidate seeking election in Isan bought votes by handing out dried and salted pla thu to villagers. He won, and the price he paid was cheap because he only had to give a few fish to each household.

When visiting friends in Laos, the most welcomed gift to bring along is a few of these same dried, salted pla thu, or perhaps some mussels preserved the same way.

This species of mackerel is a kind of "miracle fish" that can be used to make almost 100 dishes that range from the extremely simple to complex recipes that are difficult to prepare. The fish used can be fresh, steamed or dried and salted. Even the innards, including the belly and intestines, are important ingredients for food. In the South they are mixed with salt and fermented for a couple of days. Then the liquid is used to make kaeng tai pla, the most delectable of southern Thai curries.

In the Central Region the pla thu innards are fermented in the same way, then eaten with minced lemon grass, shallots and bird chillies sprinkled on top.

Fresh pla thu can be prepared in a great number of ways. About 30 years ago people in the Phetchaburi area would ferment the fresh fish with salt for about eight months and then strain the result to get just the liquid, which was used as an excellent nam pla. If this version of nam pla is no longer available, it is only because pla thu has risen so steeply in price.

In the Amphawa district of Samut Songkhram, locals wrap the fish in banana leaves and roast them in a coconut husk fire. The smoke scents the fish, which are then eaten with nam pla Mon, a sauce made by mixing nam pla with sugar, lime juice, krachai (an aromatic root), chillies and ginger. This is a simple dish exclusive to the farmers of Amphawa, as the nam pla Mon is a speciality of theirs.

Pla thu tom khem is another tasty pla thu dish. To make it, a salty broth must first be made from nam pla, sugar and tamarind juice, then sticks of sugar cane are placed on the bottom of the pot. Cleaned fresh pla thu are then added and cooked slowly over a low fire for many hours. The longer they simmer, the more the fish will be flavoured by the broth as the meat becomes firmer and the bones become so soft they almost dissolve.

This dish is delicious as is, but to make it even more delicious chop some shallots and bird chillies and sprinkle them over the fish, then serve with hot rice. It's all you need for a great meal.

Fresh pla thu can also be cooked chuchee-style. Chuchee dishes using fish are made by frying curry seasonings with coconut cream until the mixture becomes very thick, almost dry, then adding the fish. Only fish without scales can be used. People who live near fresh water will use local types like pla nuea awn, pla kot or pla khao and will sprinkle slivered kaffir lime leaves and chillies (phrik chee fa variety) over the fish before serving. This dish is a great favourite with Thais who live near rivers and lakes, but even they will agree that when made with pla thu it is just as good as when the local, freshwater types are used.

Then there is pla thu sot rat phrik sam rote. To make it, first the fresh pla thu are fried and then a three-flavoured sauce is made by frying shallots with pounded chillies, nam pla, sugar and tamarind juice, then pouring the sauce over the fish.

These are only a few examples of the many dishes that can be made using fresh pla thu.

But pla thu are also used in "steamed" form in a wide variety of recipes. Actually, the fish are boiled in salt water rather then steamed. In the past they were called pla thu kheng after the kheng, or small, round, woven bamboo containers in which they were displayed in the market.

The ones sold in the Samut Songkhram area had their necks broken by vendors so that they appeared to be looking down. This downward-looking shape became emblematic of pla thu from Samut Songkhram, and it originated when vendors were forced to break the necks of large fish so that they would fit into the kheng. Most pla thu were of a standard size, but big ones sometimes appeared and had to be forced to fit into the kheng for sale. With the passage of time, when the broken necks became a kind of Samut Songkhram trademark, even the smaller fish had the treatment.

The steamed pla thu are the ones that are fried and served with nam phrik kapi and fresh and pickled vegetables. This dish is close to the core of the Thai culinary repertoire, a viable symbol of Thailand's food. If it is not finished at the meal where it is first served, the nam phrik can be fried with rice and the meat of uneaten pla thu, removed from the fish, served together with it as a one-dish meal.

Salted, dried pla thu are usually large fish of the kind called hang khaeng ("hard-tailed") pla thu in Thai. They can be wrapped in several layers of banana leaf and roasted. As they cook they give off an appetising aroma, and taste wonderful when sprinkled with sliced shallots and bird chillies with a little lime juice squeezed over them. They can be eaten with all kinds of hot curries, or with congee.

The pla thu is a very Thai fish, one that has a prime place in the culinary culture of each region of Thailand. If other kinds of fish were to be taken away, we could probably bear it. But if the pla thu all disappeared, we would be in a sad situation indeed.

About the author

: Writer: Suthon Sukphisit; Position: Writer

The power of prayer

A German spiritual healer talks about the essence of 'Divine Straightening' and how it benefits the body-mind-spirit system of humans

Published: 23/03/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Outlook

Alexander Toskar is not a magician. But in a matter of seconds and without physical contact the German therapist can transform his patient's disproportionate legs and shoulder blades into equal parts.

ILLUSTRATION: JAKKRIT UTTAYANANON

"This is one of the main visible aspects of Divine Straightening. And it happens in less than a second. It's a sign of change that continues working in the whole body," Toskar explained about his spiritual healing approach called, "Divine Straightening".

Toskar is a spiritual healer who, together with his wife, Carolin Toskar, runs healing centres in Switzerland and Germany. He is also the founder of the Spiritual Health Foundation, whose mission is the development of spiritual healing and well-being for children and dependent people.

Toskar is the author of Die Geistige Aufrichtung, a book that describes the method essence of Divine Straightening and how it functions. It was later translated into an English version entitled Divine Straightening, and then a Thai version entitled, Palung Jit Raksa Rok. He also travels around the world to present this beneficial work and hold lectures, and has visited several hospitals and universities throughout Thailand as well as the Ministry of Public Health.

Divine Straightening is an alternative healing approach that departs from conventional medicine. According to Toskar, it is a spiritual process that leads to the healing and well-being of the entire body-mind-spirit system of a human being.

The source of the healing power is divinity, the therapist went on. In other words, it can also be called "Divine Power" or "Mind Power", while Toskar himself functions as a messenger - a bridge that connects such power and his patients.

"There are many different types of spiritual healings," Toskar explained. "Spiritual healings have been known for thousands of years. Divine Straightening is, however, still very young. It has been known for only 20 years. It is cosmic energy that patients receive. Everybody can open themselves up for divine energies through spiritual practices. The effects depend on the degree of the development of herself or himself."

Toskar first received the knowledge of Divine Straightening from his father Pjotr Elkunoviz 20 years ago. A renowned Russian spiritual healer, Elkunoviz suffered from a severe abrasion of the spine due to a scoliotic pelvis. And with yoga practice he could fortunately keep the pain at bay. But his back problem became so extreme that he was barely able to move. After many months of seeking treatments he received a very strong healing power from the divine world at 40 years of age. And he was then immediately healed.

As a child, Toskar was already very interested in spirituality. Ever since he received the knowledge of Divine Straightening from his father, he has stood for that energy. The learning process can only take place between a father and son, which means the practice of Divine Straightening is not easily accessibly.

Today, Toskar continues to develop his father's work, as well as spread the healing work - together with his wife - in Europe, Asia and the US.

German spiritual healer Alexander Toskar.

"My father was artistically gifted. He had the extraordinary ability of recognising people's physical abnormalities. When he was in his early twenties, he started creating and selling his art pieces. His works basically featured the imbalance and abnormal shapes of human beings. And while doctors usually said that such were 'normal conditions' as human beings are generally born with unequal pelvic bones and leg bones, my father on the other hand pointed out that 'these are conditions of human beings that deserve to be fixed and reversed back to normal'," Toskar said in his book.

The Ministry of Public Health's health inspector Dr Jakkriss Bhumisawasdi, said the main objective of Divine Straightening is in fact not to cure diseases. On the contrary, it is aimed to create an "orderly arrangement" inside a human body, which can eventually lead to a healthy physical and mental state.

"I don't want people to misunderstand that Divine Straightening is a magical power that can cure anything. The power helps to bring about a better energy flow inside the body. It creates balance. And when energy flows smoothly, every organ functions better. The result is better physical health," commented Dr Jakkriss, president of the Foundation for Development of Complementary-Alternative Medicine.

"And this spiritual practice links all religions, be they Buddhism, Christianity or Islam," he added.

Toskar quotes in his book and lectures from Luke 3:5: "The crooked shall be made straight", and speaks about Divine Straightening as the straightening of the life-axis. "The way is made smooth to prepare for the creator and for the vital force," he stressed.

And by referring to the Bible, the healer believes that the development and characteristics - together with other influences and emotions including anxiety, sadness, fear, loneliness, jealousy and hatred - before birth are considered invisible energies that bring about "crooked" life patterns. This is the main reason why Toskar's treatment focuses on the concept that disproportionate legs, shoulder blades or a crooked spine must be straightened to allow the energy blockages to be freed.

"The focal point of the spiritual healing is always on the information or data inside the human body. In the prenatal stages, a human being is like a book. We are open to everybody and anyone can write whatever they want in this book. The development during the prenatal stage, therefore, is so much influenced by our subconsciousness and our consciousness. Emotions from the parents also have a great impact on the way we grow up. These things are sitting in our spinal cord. And when our energy goes low, there's a blockage of the energy inside our body, resulting in rough-way circumstances. When the blockage of energy is freed, we can consciously become creators of our life circumstances and advance in our spiritual development," he said.

"Our movements all involve the spine. Whatever positions we are in ... steady, pause, sit or stand straight ... all involves the spine. And such abnormal curving of the spine may affect our perfect life-patterns," he mentioned in his book.

The therapist was recently in Bangkok to give a lecture to the public at Buddhakaya Auditorium, DMG Books. At the event, a large number of people gathered. Some of them were interested to learn more about this spiritual approach while others were eager to receive the treatment itself.

The actual healing process was swift. It only took a matter of seconds. First Toskar examined his patient's legs, shoulder blades and spine. The healer did not need to close his eyes, perform any ritual or pronounce a mantra. He simply sent his power to the patient by an invisible means.

And while patients may receive repeated treatments months or even years later, the result of Divine Straightening, the healer remarked, is permanent.

According to Toskar, the healing power will give people the strength and confidence to go about their duties and experiences in their daily lives.

"After the straightening of the spinal cord, the life energy can flow freely and reach every organ. It creates a new order inside the body. This new order is very intelligent. It knows what is best for us. It creates lots of changes. It doesn't need to be told what to do to better our life and body. Of course, many people experience spontaneous recovery after the treatment. The cosmic power will give them confidence that they need. It creates the balance.

"And this balance will be grounded and you will be able to use more life energy. Many people feel it in their daily lives, especially those who know they once had some ideas of what they wanted to do, but the situation wasn't right, or they did not have enough power or strength to do it.

"But after Divine Straightening, they now feel that the time is right. They can use the power that is now available to them to achieve whatever they want," Toskar concluded.

About the author

: Writer: Arusa Pisuthipan; Position: Outlook Reporter

PTT Park

Published: 8/03/2010 at 02:11 PM
Online news: Travel Scoop

It is another day and another journey outside of Bangkok for work. However, I do love to mix business with pleasure, so let’s call it a working holiday.

Oh no, I need some gas. I hope there is a PTT park around here. Only the best for my baby! I know, I’ll check out the new PTT station is on the Bangna-Trat Expressway.

I try to recall which side of the road it is on when I remember that there is a station on both sides. Now that is what I call convenient. Coming or going, PTT is there for you.

As I pull into the station, I am pleasantly surprised. The station is quite large, modern, and trendy. Also, there are loads of shops and restaurants. Wow, this is more like a shopping center than a gas station. Too bad we couldn’t have the meeting here, I jokingly thought.

The attendants at the pump are courteous, professional, and prompt. I fill up with Gasohol 95 and the engine rumbles, unfortunately my stomach begins to grumble. I had better fill up “my tank” so I will have plenty of fuel for my busy day.

I easily find parking next to a large bank of ATM machines. Time to fill up my wallet. Nobody likes to get hit with ATM fees. Luckily for me there are various banks’ ATM machines to choose from.

After I finish eating a delicious meal, I think to myself, I do have some time for shopping. Time to fill up my trunk!

I pick up some DVDs, CDs, books, and some amazing OTOP products and foodstuffs. My Mom is going to love the durian chips and dried tamarind. I can’t wait cruise along to my new Frank Sinatra CD and read my new Twilight book on the beach after my meeting.

I notice a cute little coffee shop, and decide to fill up on a large cup of high octane caffeine. The coffee tastes as if it were picked and brewed that morning at a coffee bean plantation in Columbia. Ok, I’m exaggerating, but it is good.

As I ponder the sheer size my 24oz cup of coffee in the manicured gardens of the outside meeting lounge, I’m thinking now would be an ideal time to visit the restroom.

I almost pinch myself when I walk into the restroom. It is sparkling clean, handicapped assessable, and oddly tranquil. It is so comfortable that I actually take out my beach book and start reading.

Well, I’ve done it all, got it all and experienced it all. It is time to hit the road. As I am safely directed out of the station my phone rings. It’s my boss and he wants to know where I am. He sounds angry and asks me if I have everything I need. Yes, and then some, I confidently and comfortably reply.

Fast forward…

I’m on my way back to Bangkok and my phones rings. It’s my boss again, but why? The meeting went well, we got the contract, and the client seemed very pleased with my presentation. What does he want now?

We would like you to choose the venue for our next regional meeting.

Great! Where am I going to host this? I thought to myself.

As I pulled into the PTT station at Bang Na, the one across the road from where my journey first started, I had my answer.

Boss, I have found our next meeting venue.

Coming or going, PTT is there for you.

Thanks to PTT Park for brighten up my day. It is such a relief for a workaholic like me. The time I spent at PTT Park reminds me of their fashion Ad. “The Destination for all Lifestyles” good job and I’m sure will hang out there again very soon.

Amata City

วันพุธที่ 31 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2553

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