วันอังคารที่ 29 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2553

Phrae's Logging Legacy Remains

Phrae's Logging Legacy Remains

Among the many remarkable old wooden homes scattered across the town, there are a few that you should not miss

  • Published: 27/06/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Brunch

For centuries, Phrae was best known for its forests and the high quality teak wood that came from them. Though logging is banned today, this legacy remains in the architecture of Phrae town and makes the charming mountain community all the more enjoyable to explore.

When you roam around the town you will come across many elegant wooden homes from the past. About a century ago, Phrae was quite a lively place as it was a hub for the logging business. As a result, a number of wealthy people built their houses there.

One of these is Kum Chao Luang - the governor's mansion - on Khum Derm Road. It was the residence of the last royal governor of Phrae, Chao Luang Piriyachai Thepwong. Built in 1892, the two-storey "gingerbread" house with high ceilings even has a basement built from huge logs. Their Majesties the King and Queen once stayed overnight in this house while on a trip to Phrae in 1958.

The elegant wooden mansion has been well renovated and turned into a museum for displaying furniture, tools and other antiques. The mansion's gables, walls, doors and windows are gracefully carved and decorated.

"Please walk backward when entering this part," a caretaker warned us when we came to the basement. "These cells were once used to imprison slaves." A Thai superstition says that walking forward into a prison brings bad luck.

In contrast to the rest of the elegant mansion, I found the basement prison quite depressing, with its low ceiling and uncomfortable atmosphere calling up its bleak past. The old chains that used to confine the inmates still hung on the wall.

"That cell has small holes with lids on the ceiling," said the caretaker. "Probably, they once were used to observe inmates from above, and the food may have been dropped through them also."

Aside from the prison below, the old mansion remains beautiful, although without any residents it has a somewhat lifeless feel to it. Ban Wongburi, also open to the public at certain times on Kham Lue Road, may be the best place to get a real taste of what it would be like to live in a luxurious old teak house. As the descendants of the original owners still live there, the house is quite vibrant. Cute modern decorations mingle with the valuable antiques, and visitors may even wander in on a small party on the back balcony.

Built in 1897 by nobleman Luang Phongphibun and Lady Sunanta Wongburi, the daughter of a logging concessionaire, the mansion was designed by a Cantonese architect and built from the best teak available from the surrounding forests. Skilled artisans contributed the delicate carvings that adorn Ban Wongburi. Facing southwest, breezes cool the house naturally for much of the year.

On display are exhibits from the old days like everyday utensils, beautifully decorated teak furniture, ceramics and rare documents such as slave contracts and forest concession certificates.

Another important teak structure in Phrae is the Vichai Racha House, on Vichai Racha Road. This architectural treasure has unfortunately not been as well maintained as the other two. Nevertheless, it has historic as well as aesthethic appeal. In 1902 Phrae town was looted by rioting ethnic Tai who made a particular attempt to rob and kill town millionaires, as well as officials from Bangkok.

Phra Vichai Racha, the treasurer of Phrae at that time, hid himself and three officials from Bangkok in the attic of the house while ethnic Tai robbers searched below. A number of locals, as well as 32 high-ranking officials from Bangkok, were killed in the riot, which lasted for a few weeks until the arrival of troops from Bangkok.

Despite the poor condition of the house, it makes for an enjoyable stop on your sightseeing tour. Tourists can roam freely around the two-storey mansion and view the intricately carved designs, particularly on the main gable. To say the least, this is a likely candidate for renovation.

These and many more fine old teak buildings reflect Phrae's glory days and keep its logging legacy intact.

About the author

columnist
Writer: Peerawat Jariyasombat
Position: Reporter


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