The smell of success
A family-run durian orchard in Nakhon Nayok has set itself apart by growing species of the fruit unavailable anywhere else
- Published: 19/06/2010 at 12:00 AM
- Newspaper section: News
When it comes to durian the "King of Thai Fruits", common species like chanee and monthong dominate the market.
Chatri Sowantrakul, second-generation owner of Suan La-ong Fa orchard, checks the ripeness of a durian. Photos by ANURAK ROCHANIROM
But one orchard in Nakhon Nayok has set itself apart from other producers by growing some of the rarest durian species which were nearly lost forever to natural disasters.
At the Suan La-ong Fa (Sky Mist Orchard) in tambon Khao Phra of Nakhon Nayok's Muang district, over 50 species of the popular fruit, some with names completely unknown to most Thais, can be found. The orchard has, against virtually impossible odds, managed to preserve some near-extinct durian.
Second-generation owner Chatri Sowantrakul said the story of his orchard began in 1942 when his father, Chom, quit his job at the Royal Forest Department after his wife's death to start a durian garden in Thon Buri district.
His father developed an interest in durians after years of staying with his mother who made a living growing old species of durian in Uttaradit.
A picker uses a ladder to climb a tall durian tree.
He invested a lot of time and energy to improve the species of the fruit in his orchard and the hard work paid off.
But in 1942, durian's worst natural enemy struck - flooding. A major inundation wiped out Chom's orchard. Nothing was left, not even durian seeds, Mr Chatri recalled.
The family was forced to start from scratch in rebuilding the orchard. Chom began collecting durian species by buying from orchards in Nonthaburi.
Mr Chatri said his father also picked up some seeds from the rubbish thrown away by rich families in Sampheng and Yaowarat areas.
As 200 new durian trees sprang up in the orchard, new problems emerged. Sea water intrusion had killed off many durian trees, and with the rapid urban expansion, Thon Buri was no longer suitable for growing the fruit.
Chom had no choice but to search for a new place to grow his durian and finally found an ideal place in a valley known as Ban Hup Khao in Nakhon Nayok.
Many durians can grow on a single branch providing the tree is in fertile soil and the season has favourable weather.
A temple in the village was called Wat Khao Durian (Durian Mountain Temple), suggesting a very strong connection between the area and the fruit.
Local residents assured Chom the area had not experienced major storms or floods. The soil is fertile and the weather is right for growing durian.
The area is sometimes shrouded in morning mist, which explains the orchard's name "Suan La-ong Fa".
Mr Chatri, a graduate of the Bundit Patanasil Institute's College of Fine Arts, inherited the durian orchard from his father who died in 1992.
At the time, Mr Chatri had already settled down in Koh Si Chang in Chon Buri. But the need to carry on the orchard which his father had worked most of his life saw Mr Chatri returning to Nakhon Nayok to run Suan La-ong Fa.
Mr Chatri calls the orchard his "inheritance of love" from his father.
The yellow pulp inside the spiky exterior of a durian.
Unlike other fruit orchards in the village, Suang La-ong Fa does not rely on dangerous and costly chemicals to repel insects and boost yields.
Instead of buying expensive breeds to grow in his orchard, Mr Chatri focuses on preserving the rare durian.
"Most farmers here always think they will make a lot of money from whatever crop they grow," he said.
"This attitude has made them fall victim to greedy crop-breed traders very easily," he added.
When many farmers produce a large quantity of fruit at the same time, prices become depressed.
The hemaraj durian may be unknown elsewhere, but at Suan La-ong Fa it is thriving. The tree produces a large durian fruit weighing between 3kg and 6kg.
Growers, however, have to wait 35 years before it bears fruit.
Two common breeds of durian are shown: the pricey kan yao, right, and monthong.
New durian species such as monthong, chanee and kan yao have become popular because they have been modified to suit the growers' needs and consumers' tastes and budgets.
These durian fruits ripen slowly allowing more time for transport and sale, unlike the old species that usually ripen in one or two days.
Although the old species are less suitable for commercial sale, some of them have their own distinct physical features.
For example, the devaraj, native to Chanthaburi, is a large, shapely fruit. Another known as son klin (hidden smell) does not have the typical, off-putting smell.
Nanthana Tantarat, a Bangkok University lecturer, said what sets Suan La-ong Fa apart is its ability to grow durian species which give a sweet, refreshing taste.
She and her husband are willing to drive all the way from Bangkok to buy the fruit when it is in season.
Ms Nanthana said the durian has a much better taste when the fruit ripens on the tree or soon after being picked than when it has been left to ripen after picking.
The 15-rai orchard also grows other tropical fruits for visitors to enjoy such as santol (a wild mangosteen), pomelos and pineapples. All of the fruits here are grown without using any chemical substances.
The philosophy of Suan La-ong Fa is that biodiversity is the key to farmers surviving the negative influences of commercialism that are to blame for overpricing.
An old durian tree with the fruit ready to be picked.
About the author
- Writer: Anurak Rochanirom
- Position: Writer
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