| Thon Buri: Wat Rajaoros Leaves a Lasting Impression | ||
| UPDATE : 24 August 2009 | ||
Nida Tunsuttiwong Following the recent launch of an extension to the Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS), I decided to check out a few interesting places along the route, which basically extends the elevated rail system over the Chao Phraya River from Saphan Taksin station into Thon Buri district on the other side.
The first place to really grab my attention was the temple of Wat Rajaorasaram (often shortened to Wat Rajaoros), which is a leading Wat Luang ('Royal temple'). It's easy to reach the temple via the skytrain system – simply hop off at Wongwian Yai station and take a 15-minute taxi ride from there to the temple. The temple was originally built sometime during Ayutthaya period (1677-1767) and was originally known as Wat Chom Thong. Temple of the Royal son In 1820, during the reign of King Rama II (1809-1824), a rumor suggested that the Burmese were planning another invasion of Siam, so the monarch ordered his son, Prince Jessadabordin, to lead an army to the border in Kanchanaburi province. On his way to Kanchanaburi, Prince Jessadabordin is said to have stayed a night at Wat Chom Thong, which is located alongside Klong Sanam Chai ('Sanam Chai canal'), which is a branch of the Bangkok Yai canal. During his stay at the temple, the prince conducted a Brahmin ceremony known as Boak Khlon Thawan. This ancient tradition aims to wish troops luck before they head off to war. Once the ceremony was over, the abbot of the temple told the prince that he had a vision, suggesting that the prince would safely return to Bangkok. The prince basically told the abbot that he would return to the temple, and that if he did so, assuming he could win in battle, he would rebuild and renovate the temple. It subsequently turned out that the Burmese army had not arrived, and so the prince kept his promise and returned to rebuild the temple. For this reason, the temple is called Wat Rajaorasaram ('Temple of the Royal son'). The restoration basically took 14 years to carry out and a celebration was organized to mark the completion in 1831. Prince Jessadabordin went on to succeed his father, becoming King Rama III. Chinese influence During the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851), Chinese merchants and migrants began playing a more significant role in Siamese society and the economy. Many Chinese people adopted Thai names in order to better blend in within mainstream society, while Chinese women were among those to become one of the monarch's numerous wives or as a consort in order to help strengthen the bonds between China and Siam. Around this time, HM the King had become particularly interested in Chinese arts and architecture. The monarch established many fine examples, which showed that Chinese and Thai arts could successfully co-exist. Three major temples that demonstrate this perfectly are Wat Arun ('The Temple of Dawn') Wat Chalerm Prakiet, and Wat Pho ('Temple of the Reclining Buddha'). While Wat Pho and Wat Arun have become popular destinations among both locals and tourists, other Thai-Chinese style temples built or renovated during the reign of King Rama III - such as Wat Bangkhunthian Nai, Wat Khruawan, Wat Nang Nong and Wat Rajaorasaram - have tended to receive fewer visitors, largely due to their less accessible locations. Perhaps the establishment of the skytrain extension may have an impact on the situation as access for the general public has just got a whole lot easier. A wander round Let's begin by taking a look at the ubosot ('ordination hall') at Wat Rajaoros, which faces Klong Sanam Chai. After entering the compound via a Chinese-style gate guarded by two stone lions, I discovered a bullet wood tree, which provided shade for a much-revered dais ('a raised platform'), which had once been occupied by King Rama II during a visit to the temple to observe the construction process. Looking up at the roof of the ordination hall, I noticed that two chorfa (often referred to as 'sky tassels'), which are usually located at the roof ends, while the pediment, which usually depicts the life of the Buddha, has been replaced here by a colorful Chinese-style one, decorated with animals, dragons and flowers. While the window panels feature a mixture of Thai and Chinese designs, the four main doors feature some head-turning mother of pearl inlay and are guarded by life-size Chinese stone figures that were dispatched to Siam from China as ballast aboard empty rice junks. While the interior has been beautifully adorned with Chinese-style mural paintings, the main Buddha image – in the meditation posture known as Phra Buddha Anantakhun Adulayarn – is most certainly Thai in style. Relics of King Rama III are also said to have been stored within the base of the Buddha image. Numerous stunning features Wat Rajaoros is one of just a handful of temples that feature three viharn ('sermon halls'), each one for reclining, seated, and standing Buddha images, respectively. The Phra Vihara Phra Buddhasaiyai ('Sermon Hall of the Reclining Buddha') is located just behind the main ordination hall. It is surrounded by 32 small chedi (stupas) and a long corridor that houses many Buddha images, as well as 92 marble slabs inscribed with traditional medical prescriptions. These are similar to those found at Wat Pho. Enshrined in this sermon hall is a six-meter tall and 20-m long reclining Buddha, known formally as Phra Buddhasaiyas Nartchanin Shinsakaya Borom Somdej Sanphet Bhuddhaborphit. Two other Thai-Chinese style viharn, housing standing and meditation-style images are located to the left and right of the ordination hall, respectively. The viharn to the left features a standing Buddha image, which is in the 'Stopping the Relatives from Fighting' posture, along with others in many different sizes and styles. It is widely thought that this viharn once served as the temple's main ordination hall. In front of the viharn is a large chedi, which stores relics belonging to members of the Laddawan family, who are descendants of Krom Muen Pumintarapakdi - a son of King Rama III. The last viharn, located to the right of the ordination hall, is called Sala Karn Parien ('the teaching/learning hall'). Here, there is a seated Buddha image in the posture of 'Giving Instructions', while in front is a Chinese-style chedi, which apparently contains the relics of former abbots of the temple. Located on Soi 4 off Ekkachai Road in Chom Thong distruct's Bangkho subdistrict, you can get further information by calling Tel: +66 (0)2 451 2286, or +66 (0)2 893 7274. Transport connections: Taxi/Bus: From the BTS' Wongwian Yai station (S8), it's best to take a taxi to Ekkachai Soi 4. The temple is located several hundreds meters inside Ekkachai Soi 4. You could also take non-air conditioned bus No 84 to Wongwian Yai intersection and from there take air-conditioned bus No 7 to Ekkachai Soi 4. Car: From Wong Wian Yai BTS station on Krung Thon Buri Road turn left at the first intersection for Somdet Phrachao Taksin Road. Shortly after you reach Somdet Phrachao Taksin Soi 37, prepare to turn right for Chom Thong Road which will connect you with Ekkachai Road. After you cross a railway track, you will soon find Ekkachai Soi 4 on your right. | ||
วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 4 มีนาคม พ.ศ. 2553
Thon Buri: Wat Rajaoros Leaves a Lasting Impression
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