Raging Grace
Ubon Ratchathani is the shortest land link to southern Laos whose pristine waterfalls and beguiling nature would snare many a heart
- Published: 6/05/2010 at 12:00 AM
- Newspaper section: Horizons
Most waterfalls lack flourish in summer but not the Khone Phapheng in Champasak Province of southern Laos which, thanks to the mighty Mekong River, rages almost unabated all year round, venting its fury against huge boulders standing in its path.
Stretching the breadth of the Mekong, the Khone Phapheng is strewn with rocks of all size, and the roar of the waves crashing against them is so loud it can be heard from miles away.
''Summer is the time when the waterfall is at its peak beauty because the water is clear,'' said Dalath Khampaseuth, my local tour guide when I visited the fall recently, before adding, ''the water turns brick-red during rainy season when no one can swim nor ride a boat across the Khone Phapheng because the cascades are too strong, the layout rocky and unnavigable, and any such attempt can result in death.''
Visitors observe the waterfall from a designated viewpoint. Though risky, some climb down the cliff on which it is built for a closer view. They sit on boulders absorbing the scenery dotted with fishermen casting their nets in the fast-flowing river. But they can't venture this far during rainy season when the level of water is quite high submerging everything in view.
From the viewpoint you get a panoramic view of Khone Phapheng dubbed the Niagara of Asia. Besides the cascades in the middle of the river, there are others, smaller ones, which flow into the Mekong. Khone Phapheng marks the end of the Mekong's passage through Laos before the river curves and crosses into Cambodia.
We were only given 30 minutes to admire the waterfall, though it took us about two hours to drive there from Pakse. The two-lane road leading to the fall was in good condition and the traffic easy. But you couldn't drive fast because you ran the risk of pigs or cattle cutting into your path any time.
If you have extra days to spend, visit Li Phi Waterfall, Si Phan Don (4,000 Islands) and Wat Phu, a Unesco World Heritage site.
The closest point for crossing into southern Laos from Thailand is the Chong Mek border checkpoint in Ubon Ratchathani, home to pre-historic rock paintings at Pha Taem National Park. Alternatively, you can hire a long-tailed boat in Khong Chiam district for a cruise on the Mekong.
For its part, Ubon Ratchathani has the makings of a potential hub for visitors crossing from Thailand into southern Laos and travelling onto Cambodia and Vietnam, a point that's not lost on domestic carrier Nok Air, which recently has been looking at the northeast Isan region with renewed interest and where, asserts its Vice President _ Coporate Communications Suriyapa Bunnag, ''There remain many hidden gems along the Mekong and Moon rivers waiting to be explored.''
Ubon Ratchathani is 629 kilometres northeast of Bangkok. Nok Air operates three daily flights there from Don Mueang Airport at 6.10am, 12.20pm and 18.20pm. The return flights depart Ubon Ratchathani at 7.45am, 1.55pm and 7.55pm. Flight time is about an hour. For more information, visit http://www.nokair.com or call 1318.
- Pha Taem National Park: http://www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve, tel: 045-318-026 and 045-246-332.
- Khone Phapheng Waterfall is about 150 kilometres south of Pakse, accessible via Highway 13 in Laos.
- Tad Pha Suam is about 30 minutes drive from Pakse. Take Highway 13 and at KM 21 turn left to a local road. The fall is about 3 kilometres from the junction.
- There are a number of tour operators in Ubon Ratchathani offering travel packages to Champasak. Public vans also connect Chong Mek and Pakse. For more information, call the Tourism Authority of Thailand's office there at 045-243-770, 045-250-714 and 1672; websites: http://www.tatubon.org and http://www.ubonguide.org.
- For information, visit the Lao National Tourism Administration website at http://www.tourismlaos.org.
- Motorists driving to Laos need a permit from the Department of Land Transport (http://www.dlt.go.th), car insurance which can be bought at the border checkpoint, car registration book, and driver's license. Visit http://www.ubonratchathani.go.th/borderpassed.html for details.
Wat Tham Khuha Sawan in Khong Chiam district sits in a cave where preserved is the body of its former abbot Luang Pu Kham Khaning Chula Mani, which is still in good condition although he’s been dead more than 20 years.
Pre-historic rock paintings dating back 3,000 years are the main attraction at Pha Taem National Park. Shown here is the largest of the four groups of rock paintings found along a three-kilometre-long cliff. Measuring 180-metre in length, this group depicts a large fish which is believed to be the the giant Mekong catfish, together with several smaller fish, an elephant, jars and human palms. They were painted using red sandstones and hematites.
Fishing is the main source of income for people living by the Moon River in Khong Chiam district. Men prowl the river with their fishing nets while kids enjoy a swim by its banks. Tourists generally travel to the confluence of the Moon and Mekong rivers, a point the locals call ‘mae nam song si’ because of the difference in colours of the water from the two rivers, especially during the rainy season.
Pakse is the capital of Champasak Province and this is its biggest wet market where you can buy fresh meat, vegetable, fruit, pickled food, bread, rice, clothes and fashion items. The market is about 45 kilometres east of the checkpoint and opens daily during 5am to 5pm.
Khai katha’ (fried eggs) is a popular breakfast dish in Ubon Ratchathani. The eggs are usually topped off with ‘moo yor’ (traditional pork sausage) and ‘kun chiang’ (sweet Chinese sausage). Some restaurants also add fried ground pork and dry shredded pork. It is served with bread and tastes good with freshly brewed coffee.
Six ethnic groups live in a demonstration village that is part of Bachiang Resort. The woman wearing large earrings made of elephant tusk belongs to the Lawae tribe. Bigger earrings denote higher levels in the social heirarchy. By tradition, Lawae women cut the front row of their upper teeth at midpoint when they turn 18 years old because it is considered beautiful. The woman weaving cloth (bottom right) hails from the Tariang ethnic group. Tariang women are adept at using their feet when weaving. The clothes are for sale and the prices start at 200 baht. Other ethnic groups living in this village are the Alak, Katu, Ta Oi and Ngae.
This waterfall, Tad Pha Suam, a popular site for tourists who drop by for lunch or overnight stay, is located in Bachiangchaleunsouk district of Champasak. The natural waterfall is part of Bachiang Resort run by Thai businessman Wimol Kijbamrung who won a 45-year concession from the Lao government to develop the area for commercial purpose. It took him seven years to put everything together
Another view of Khone Phapheng.
Relate Search: Ubon Ratchathani, Khone Phapheng, Champasak Province of southern Laos, Mekong River
About the author
- Writer: Karnjana Karnjanatawe
- Position: Reporter
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